Montevideo is a capital that feels like a big town. There are no crowds, no rush, and a 22 km promenade, the Rambla, along the river that looks like the sea. People walk, jog and drink mate by the water at sunset every single day. The old town (Ciudad Vieja) has beautiful but sometimes neglected art deco and colonial buildings, and the food is all about meat: parrilla, chivito and asado. It's not a city with big monuments; it's a city to live slowly for a few days.
History & How Long to Stay
The Spanish governor of Buenos Aires, Bruno Mauricio de Zabala, founded Montevideo between 1724 and 1726 as a walled fortress to stop the Portuguese, who had settled in Colonia. Of the walls, only the Puerta de la Ciudadela (1740s) remains, at the edge of Plaza Independencia. After the wars for independence, led by national hero José Gervasio Artigas, Uruguay became independent in 1828, with Brazil and Argentina agreeing to a buffer state between them, and the first constitution was signed on 18 July 1830. European immigrants, mainly Spanish and Italian, built the city in the late 1800s and early 1900s, when Uruguay was so rich it was called "the Switzerland of America". In 1930 Montevideo hosted the first FIFA World Cup at the new Estadio Centenario, and Uruguay won it. A civic-military dictatorship ruled from 1973 to 1985.
How long to stay: 2 to 3 days.