Santiago is a big, modern capital in a valley with the Andes right behind it. On a clear winter morning after rain, the snowy peaks look close enough to touch; on other days a layer of smog hides them completely. The city is organised and safer than most Latin American capitals, the metro is excellent, and each neighbourhood has its own personality: the historic center around Plaza de Armas, bohemian Bellavista and Lastarria, and the glass towers of Providencia and Las Condes (locals call it "Sanhattan"). It isn't the prettiest city in South America, but it is a great base, with Valparaíso, wineries and ski resorts all within two hours.
History & How Long to Stay
Spanish conquistador Pedro de Valdivia founded Santiago on 12 February 1541 on the banks of the Mapocho River, at the foot of Huelén hill, today Cerro Santa Lucía. Only months later the Indigenous leader Michimalonco attacked and burned the new town, and over the centuries it was rebuilt several times after earthquakes. Chile secured its independence in 1818 at the Battle of Maipú, fought on what is now the southwest edge of the city. The 20th century shaped the Santiago you see today: on 11 September 1973 the military bombed La Moneda palace during the coup that overthrew President Salvador Allende, starting 17 years of dictatorship under Augusto Pinochet. Democracy returned in 1990. In October 2019 the "estallido social" protests filled Plaza Baquedano (still called Plaza Italia by everyone), and many murals from those months are still on the walls around it.
How long to stay: 3 to 4 days, plus day trips.