Zadar is a relaxed old town on a small peninsula, with Roman columns lying around in the streets, marble lanes and the sea on three sides. It is less crowded than Split or Dubrovnik and feels more lived-in. The best moment of the day is sunset on the waterfront, when the Sea Organ plays and the Greeting to the Sun lights up.
History & How Long to Stay
Zadar has been inhabited for about 3,000 years. The Illyrian Liburnians had a settlement here, and in the 1st century BC it became the Roman colony of Iader, which explains the forum in the centre. It was a major Byzantine city and later fought Venice for centuries; in 1202 the armies of the Fourth Crusade sacked it on Venice's behalf. Venice ruled from 1409 to 1797 and built the walls and the Land Gate. Between the two world wars Zadar belonged to Italy, and it was heavily bombed in World War II, which is why you see modern buildings next to Roman ruins.
How long to stay: 2 days for the city. Add a day each for Krka, Plitvice or the islands.